Rudyard Kipling has been vilified as the jingoistic poet of The Empire, a reputation Kipling lovers have tried to re cast for many years.
But in 1899 Kipling wrote two poems which seem to map his thinking for us:
After returning to England in 1899, when he was 24 , Rudyard Kipling wrote “The White Man’s Burden” in which he appealed to the United States to seriously assume the task of developing the Philippines, which they recently won in the Spanish-American War.
In this poem, Kipling advised the United States to:
Take up the White Man’s burden– / Send forth the best ye breed– / Go bind your sons to exile / To serve your captives’ need;/ To wait in heavy harness, /On fluttered folk and wild– / Your new-caught, sullen peoples, / Half-devil and half-child.
His poem “Mandalay” was written that same year when Kipling arrived in England after seven years in India. Rangoon was his first port of call en route to England after Calcutta, and he had a stop at Moulmein. Kipling noticed nothing of the serene culture of Mandalay; instead, he only had eyes for the Burmese girls. He wrote that, love the Burman with the blind favouritism born of first impression. When I die I will be a Burman … and I will always walk about with a pretty almond-coloured girl who shall laugh and jest too, as a young maiden ought. She shall not pull a sari over her head when a man looks at her and glare suggestively from behind it, nor shall she tramp behind me when I walk: for these are the customs of India. She shall look all the world between the eyes, in honesty and good fellowship, and I will teach her not to defile her pretty mouth with chopped tobacco in a cabbage leaf, but to inhale good cigarettes of Egypt’s best brand.
But the most famous Kipling impression of Mandalay is in his poem “Mandalay”:
By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’ eastward to the sea, / There’s a Burma girl a-settin’, and I know she thinks o’ me; / For the wind is in the palm-trees, and the temple-bells they say: / “Come you back, you British soldier; come you back to Mandalay!”
Come you back to Mandalay, / Where the old Flotilla lay: /Can’t you ‘ear their paddles chunkin’ from Rangoon to Mandalay?
On the road to Mandalay, /Where the flyin’-fishes play, / An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!
And yet . . .
Mandalay is the old citadel of Myanmar kings.
Mandalay palace is right in front of Mandalay Hill where the last two Myanmar Kings, King Mindon and King Thibaw resided, a reminder to British colonial time.
Mandalay Hill
The hill is the landmark of Mandalay City, the last royal city of the Myanmar Kings. It is also the hub and centre of Myanmar culture, arts and crafts, Myanmar literature, music and dancing, fine Arts.
Laquerware
Carved Bible Box
Laquer Temple Offering Urn
Emroidered tapesty: "Buddha's Footprint"
Bronze casting
This is where the core of Buddhist learning and architecture can be found and is the place where the so-called Myanmar Ten Flowers bloom and flourish. These Ten Flowers refer to the ten Myanmar traditional arts which have been passed on for centuries and which continue to be nurtured and preserved today. These are:
- Panbe (the art of blacksmith)
- Panbu (the art of sculpture)
- Pantain (the art of gold and silver smith)
- Pantin(the art of bronze casting)
- Pantaut (the art of making floral designs using masonry)
- Panyan (the art of bricklaying and masonry)
- Pantamault (the art of sculpting with stone)
- Panpoot (the art of turning designs on the lathe)
- Panchi (the art of painting)
- Panyun (the art of making lacquer ware)
Ancient traditions and culture are well respected here.
Amazingly 111 languages are spoken in Myanmar (Burma) although the majority speak the Myanmar language (more popularly known as “Burmese” or myanma bhasa) which is the official language of Burma. Burmese is largely monosyllabic and tonal, a very formal language with specific sentence and word forms for persons of authority, the elders and monks.
Monastery
It is in Mandalay that these traditions find their home.
To visit Mandalay is to awaken your soul and journey through an invisible threshold into an exotic new world of harmony and grace. A fragile beauty gradually unfolds, and soon you begin to fall into its allure. Dusk falls on the U-Bein Bridge with the gentleness of a calm whisper, and in the all-embracing serenity everyday cares fade away in the presence of nature’s gifts.
Mandalay is well-known for its significant monasteries, pagodas, temples and religious edifices and here too lies the royal palace, Kuthodaw pagoda, the blue ridge of the Shan mountains, and the sleepy town of Sagaing on the bank of ever-flowing Ayeyawady or Irrawaddy.
The Palace
One of its most important sites is Kuthodaw, known as the world’s largest book. Rows upon rows of white miniature pagodas contain 729 marble slabs, which are inscribed on both sides with the Tripitaka, or Buddhist scriptures.
In 1857 King Mindon built the Kuthodaw to safeguard the Buddhist Canon of Tripitaka Texts, which were previously recorded only on palm leaf. The texts were inscribed on 729 marble slabs, each housed in a small shrine. They say if these shrines were piled one on top of the other, the pile would reach the height of a 20 story building.
It is said that that Kind Midon gathered 2400 monks for six months to deliberate and agree upon an authorized version. It took 5000 masons eight years to inscribe the marble slabs. Upon completion, the whole work was read aloud without a pause. It took 220 days for a monk to recite the full scriptures and five managed to memorize them.
It was also the place where King Mindon passed away.
So what is it that Kipling failed to experience in spiritual Mandalay? Was he merely a brazen faced imperialist? Was he really the trumpet of the Empire?
These lines from him poem “The Naulkha” seem to suggest an answer: “And the end of the fight is a tombstone white with the name of the late deceased, and the epitaph drear: A Fool lies here who tried to hustle the East.”
In 1907 Rudyard Kipling was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature , the first English writer to receive the award.