Istanbul and Kusadasi: A Double Take in Turkey

Istanbul

In 1929, a swing style song about Istanbul was an international top tune.

Istanbul (Not Constantinople)

Istanbul was Constantinople / Now it’s Istanbul, not Constantinople / Been a long time gone, Constantinople/ Now it’s Turkish delight on a moonlit night . . .

So take me back to Constantinople /No, you can’t go back to Constantinople /Been a long time gone, Constantinople /Why did Constantinople get the works? / That’s nobody’s business but the Turks

Who knows why a song about such an exotic country became an American hit?

There are countless beauties to love about Turkey (Türkiye), but what I love most is the fact that is authentically Eurasian. Turkey spans across the Anatolian peninsula in western Asia and Thrace (Rumelia) in the Balkan region of southeastern Europe. The beautiful country is embraced by eight countries which border it : Bulgaria to the northwest; Greece to the west; Georgia to the northeast; Armenia, Azerbaijan and Iran to the east; and Iraq and Syria to the southeast.

It is surrounded by awesome seas: the Mediterranean Sea and Cyprus to the south; the Aegean Sea to the west; and the Black Sea to the north. The Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles mark the boundary between Eastern Thrace and Anatolia and separate Europe and Asia.

Most of Modern Turkey is comprised of the Anatolian peninsula, one of the oldest continuously inhabited regions in the world. The settlement of Troy, setting of one of the world’s most important literary works, began in the Neolithic and continued into the Iron Age. The Roman emperor Constantine I chose Byzantium to be the new capital of the Roman Empire in 324, renaming it New Rome (later Constantinople and Istanbul).

Various religions exist side by side, all forming a spiritual base of a country so unique in beauty, history and culture. Many monuments and world heritage sites punctuate this heritage.

Sultanahmet (The Blue Mosque), right across the Haghia Sophia was built by the architect Mehmet Aga by the order of Sultan Ahmed I.in the 17th century

Aya Sofya (Haghia Sophia) Museum is an ancient Byzantine church built by Justinian I between 532-537 AD. Minarets were added to this church when it was converted to a mosque in mid 15th century and today it is a repository of both Christian and Islamic art as well as some of the best examples of Byzantine mosaics.

The Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) : for 400 years of their reign, the Ottoman sultans used this palace as their official and primary residence. A huge compound, it consists of 4 courtyards, several gardens, and a harem, which was served as as luxurious residences.

The Grand Bazaar (Kapalicarsi) covers around 31,000 square feet and houses over 3,000 shops. It is probably the first ever mall the world ever knew, and to date it is the oldest. Because it has around 22 gates, and is composed of labyrinthine alleys, it is easy to get lost in this enormous shopping area.

The Egyptian Bazaar (Misir Carsisi) is also known as Spice Market. Built in mid-17th century by the architect Kazim Aga, it was restored in the mid-forties. The spice market contains 86 shops inside, a plant market on one side and a food market on the other. It is a saturation of colors, sights, and sounds!

South of Izmir: Ephesus and Kusadasi

But it is south of Izmir where things will take a turn, and a enthralling blend of religions take shape. South of Izmir are Ephesus (Efes), Selcuk and Kusadasi.

The library at Ephesus

Ephesus

The Lay out of Ephesus

The Medusa in Ephesus

Built by the colonizing Athens in 1000 BC as a port in the Aegean Sea, the magnificent ruins of Ephesus now overlooks an arid valley.  The city, dedicated to the goddess Artemis, was known for its Temple to Artemis. It was considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Ephesus represents countless facets of the ancient Greek and Roman cultures and is located between Mount Coressos and Mount Pion near Selcuk in Izmir.

The Marble Walkway

The Ampitheatre

Meryemana Evi (Mary's House)

Meryemana Evi

Around Six kilometers from Selcuk  near Ephesus is the Virgin Mary’s house. Turks call the house Meryemana Evi, or simply Meryemana.

The house is believed to be the last residence of the Virgin Mary when she was brought to Ephesus by the Apostle John after the resurrection of Christ. Mary is said to have lived her last days there.

The house is a small stone building consisting of a bedroom and a kitchen. The interior is kept simple and austere, fitted only with an altar, images of Mary and candles.

The spring that runs under the Virgin’s House is believed to have healing properties, and many miracles have been reported. Inside the house are crutches and canes said to be left behind by those who were healed by the sacred spring.

The prayer wall where I posted a prayer amidst the thousands.

Archaeologists believe that the house dates from the 6th or 7th century though its foundations are much older and may well date from the 1st century AD, the time of Mary.

Turkey is a land of vast open spaces  and  august mountain ranges, overflowing with rich archeological wonders. Graeco Roman cities here are so unbelievably well preserved. Roman aqueducts, Byzantine churches and Ottoman mosques and palaces lie side by side, as the song said, truly a Turkish delight on a moon lit night!

And while it is true what everyone who’s been to Turkey says –  that everyone’s uncle will try to sell you a carpet, the people are warm and friendly, even if you do tell them you will not buy their carpet!

This little girl was helping her father sell T shirts on the road. She invited me for tea in their modest home.

This man was making wire mandalas and gave me one for free after a conversation about personal mandalas.

About Chona Valles

I am here. Welcome to what I see.
This entry was posted in Istanbul, Kusadasi, Turkey and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a comment